The rough sea hits the island of Batanes as if saying that I am king.

The waves violently hit the rocks with enviable freedom. His stuttering power ignores remorse.

However, the island does not recede, does not fold or disintegrate. It takes a proud beating with a ‘Hah’, I’m Batanes.

In fact, Batanes should be proud of its coffers. It offers an astonishing landscape that is as complex as a Roger Dean artwork. Winding, spiral mountains roll for miles and miles carpeted with green pastures. Atop its many cliffs, you can get a front seat view of the brisk waters of the China Sea merging with the Pacific Ocean.

There is also something incredibly charming about the island’s unique stone houses. At around 10 feet thick, these ancestor-created rock dwellings have withstood tortuous rain and intimidating winds. The roofs are made of cogon that provides waterproof shade. From afar, the houses create an astonishing texture of color and shape that is bucolic and unlike anything I have been to in the provinces I have visited.

Despite the incredible scenery, the island’s greatest strength is its people: the Ivatans. Storm warriors by birth still possess a gentle demeanor, a friendly disposition, and an incredible sense of trustworthiness. It is said that crime does not exist in Batanes and people do not need to lock their doors. There is even a sign in the city treasury that says “LOST AND FOUND – MONEY. Please claim inside.”

As most travel junkies know, Batanes is the northernmost province of the Philippines and its smallest island, both in terms of area and population. Among its ten small islands, only three are inhabited: Batan, Itbayat and Sabtang. Sandwiched between Babuyan Island and Taiwan, the province is closer to Taipei than it is to Manila. In fact, an urban legend says that on a clear day you can see Taiwan and hear the crowing of Chinese roosters.

The growth in Batanes tourism has been driven by airlines like Asian Spirit who conveniently launch weekly flights (for a round-trip ticket price of P10,000). Surprisingly elegant, the main airport is located in Basco, the capital of the province (which is located on the island of Batán). Although the flight is a bit choppy, I land safely in Batanes and look for my adventure.

DAY 1 – Walking around Basco

In a refreshing contrast to other city centers, Basco doesn’t have a mall or Starbucks coffee shop, yet. The pseudo-mall is a small street lined with small groceries, supply stores, and ukay-ukay stores. Zero tricycles explain the quiet streets and only a couple of jeeps and cars exist here.

2:00 pm

Shanedel’s, a family-run inn, is a great place to crash. The place has a spectacular view of Batan Bay and is right next to the busy port of Basco. You can also see an old lighthouse perched on a hill. The languid cows graze in the pasture. The cattle stood so still that I almost doubted they were real.

5:10 pm

Conveniently, the lighthouse is only a 20 minute walk from my house. The sky was turning crimson as the sun prepared to rest when the moon decided to pass. I can’t tell you how amazing it is to see the sunset and the moon reveal simultaneously.

8:45 pm

Fried flying fish, it was my first dinner in Batanes. The meat was okay. Nothing fantastic.

DAY 2 Exploring the island of Batán

Batán, is the second largest island of Batanes that serves as a center of commerce and houses the seat of the provincial government. Travelers can organize sightseeing tours that will explore the municipalities of Batán, which include Basco, Ivana, Uyugan and Mahatao.

10 a. M.

The ‘jeepney topload’ is the best seat to take when viewing the landscape of Batan. The journey winds through the rolling terrain of the island. Above me are spectacular mountain formations that resemble stoic hunched giants. The white sand beach below me features crystal clear waters lapping against massive rocks.

Every now and then the driver parks his vehicle and allows my group to get out to take in the scenery. There is nothing more beautiful than sitting on the edge of a cliff to gaze at the horizon. No skyscrapers, no ships, not a single living person litter my view, just a clear blue sky. I pretend this really is the end of the world.

12:30 pm – Honesty Store in the town of Ivana

Lunch takes place in a small unstaffed canteen stocked with goodies (mommy, chips, soda, cookies). The owners put their faith in the honesty of the customers … hence the store’s nickname.

2:10 pm – Marlboro Country

After a belly-filling lunch, I head to the town of Payaman nicknamed Marlboro Country. The tour guide has ‘Makikita mo parang wala ka sa Pilipinas’. The city has a different feel. The grass, from afar, is a mixture of dark green and brown tones. The guide explained that the brown color is actually thin bamboo wood that cordons off the land of an Ivantan family from that of their neighbor. This town is the Batanes version of the Tagaytay Highlands, but instead of golf courses, it is actually cattle pasture. Fantastic!

DAY 3- Sabtang Island

Sabtang is considered one of the 12 best destinations by the Department of Tourism in 1994. Compared to Batan, the island is less prosperous but has more charm (in my opinion). Batán’s modern influences have turned its precious stone houses into concrete walls and thatched roofs. Meanwhile, Sabtang still has its cobbled streets and stone houses intact. Although the Sabtang is also beginning to deteriorate as people begin to modernize their houses. The danger of deterioration of Batanes is an issue that the government should pay attention to, but that is another article.

The landscape of Sabtang is also more impressive than that of Batan. Rugged mountains, deep canyons, and a seemingly endless stretch of white beach is amazing. The sheer limestone cliffs plunging into cerulean waters make it so surreal. I was able to swim in Batanes waters!

PS Oh, and by the way I saw an indie film production filming a scene on the island (these guys made the indie movie called Donsol). I heard that Angel Aquino was the star. Interesting …

8 pm – Dinner time

A birthday party hosted by a fellow adventurer spiced up the evening. A belly feast that includes fresh tuna, lobster and suckling pig sashimi. We wash it down with a ubiquitous Pinoy drink: Tanduay. Hmm

Other memorable dishes I tried at Batanes were fresh blue marlin tuna steak, green pepper stuffed lapu-lapu steak, beef steak (let me tell you they have a lot of cows here), cuttlefish, and pizza. Yes pizza … there is a pizza man in Basco called Iván, my favorite flavors are pepperoni, garlic and cheese and anchovy pizza. You have to order in advance to be able to enjoy your delicacy.

DAY 4 – Return home

Flights from Batanes to Manila always take off around 10 am. There was a certain melancholic feeling that came over me when I left the picturesque island. Probably because I’m going back to the circus that I call my life. I suppose one thing I have in common with Batanes is that, like their islands, I always try to win the metaphorical and raging waves of life.

THE CHECKLIST

Batanes will definitely see me again. There are also many things that I could not do.

Here is my list:

1. Fly to Itbaya, which is the third inhabited island of Batanes. He was supposed to go, but unfortunately the only plane that flies to the island broke down. For those who wish to go to Batanes, I suggest exploring Itbaya before going to the other island as it is much more difficult to access.

2. Climb Mount Iraya

3. Visit Mavudis Island, which is the northernmost island of Batanes. Coconut crabs litter the rich island teeming with marine life.

4. Explore Nakabuwang Cave in Sabtang and Chawa Cave, which is said to be haunted. It has a bed of natural salt and a mouth that opens to the South China Sea.

Lastly, I’d like to surf, wouldn’t it be so rude to say to the rough waters of Batanes ‘HAH, I’m the queen’?

Bring a digital camera! See http://www.camera.co.uk