Siamese cats remain one of the most popular cat breeds in the US and around the world. Your purchase cost may vary based on your breeding pedigree, color, and other factors. So is Siamese expensive? What costs are involved in addition to the purchase price?

Startup costs

The first choice you should make when it comes to getting any breed of cat is do you want to adopt a kitten from a breeder or rehome an adult cat from a breeder or shelter? Relocating is generally cheaper than buying a pedigree kitten, but the cat’s pedigree is less likely to be known. They are also likely to be neutered or spayed, so it won’t be a good thing if you are planning your own breeding program. On the other hand, if you want to do something good and take in an abandoned animal to be a loving and interesting companion, then a shelter cat will be ideal.

Assuming you want a pedigree kitten for display or breeding purposes, you can contact a local or national cat registry for details of local breeders. Talk to a few to get an idea of ​​the cost of their kittens and also their pedigree. Prices can range from hundreds to thousands of pounds depending on the kitten’s lineage.

Other costs

Buying a cat is not the only cost to consider before starting the process; there are ongoing costs to think about. Yes, you have to buy the bill for the food, cat litter, toys and cat furniture on an ongoing basis, but you also have to consider vet fees.

As a general rule, Siamese cats are relatively healthy cats and do not have the problems associated with long-haired breeds such as the Persian. Many of the genetic problems that once plagued the breed are much less common due to the diligent work of breeders to remove this genetics from the breeding pool. Kittens that have these problems are likely not to be sold to anyone planning to show or breed for obvious reasons.

Siamese are on the list of breeds that are more prone to developing respiratory problems, particularly in younger cats. These include infections caused by calicivirus and feline rhinotracheitis virus. This is often because adult cats have received their vaccinations that save them from infection, but younger cats may not have received theirs yet.

Excessive grooming or psychogenic alopecia is another problem that can occur with Siamese twins if they feel lonely and bored. These cats are very sociable and do not do well if left alone all day. Therefore, this must be taken into account before buying one of this breed.

According to pet insurance providers, Siamese are the most expensive cat in the US in terms of vet fees. Since 2000, there have been more than $ 74,000 in claims for Siamese cats with an average bill of just under $ 400. However, this statistic should be offset by the fact that Siamese are also one of the most numerous cat breeds. from the country.

Lastly, there are vaccinations that should be given regularly to cats to avoid the general and life-threatening diseases that cats can contract. If you plan to breed or show cats, these are required but are still very essential to your cat’s well-being.

Conclution

Siamese twins can be expensive in terms of their down payment and ongoing care and health issues. However, they are not on the list of the most expensive breeds and Savannah is currently at the top; the purchase price for one of these cats can range from $ 15,000 to $ 35,000. Cool cat!

I call Missy my wonder bitch.
 
The call came out of nowhere. At 9 am on October 10, my Missy, a rescued blonde cocker spaniel, lost the use of her hind legs. Overnight, he went from Michael Jordan’s athleticism to a paraplegic. We had 24 hours to decide if surgery was a viable option.
 
Missy is the kind of soul who limits her steps to three at a time. He ran where others walked. He jumped where others jumped. She lived to take a ride in the car where she was sitting on the front console. Her will and determination could cause a sleeping adult to come downstairs in the middle of the night when she deigns herself a necessary gift.
 
We now had 24 hours to match a medical miracle with our little girl Missy. We expected an MRI to show a slipped disc, easier to repair and with a better chance of her walking again. The results showed damage over a period of time, he had only been silently compensating.
 
A team of doctors said surgery may or may not restore your ability to walk. She is a fighter and we had to give her a chance to fight. On October 11, she was prepped for surgery. The surgery went well, but there was still no promise of normalcy. Only the promise that there will be a new reality of normality.
 
From Missy and this period of convalescence we have learned a lot about how to meet our challenges. Perhaps you can also learn to face your challenges:
 

Four months later, we have all learned. We have learned to be thankful for a puppy neurosurgeon, a physical therapist, an oncologist, laser acupuncture, and the water tape. What I am most grateful for is this dog with a heart, a will and an attitude of steel.

 
1. Deal with problems quickly
We had to quickly decide if surgery was going to be a viable option. We collect expert opinion as quickly as possible and move forward. Somehow we were lucky that medical reality dictated a quick decision. The takeaway lesson is that regardless of the challenge or the situation, moving forward is always a good thing.
 
two. Assume the best
If I could speak for Missy, I think she always assumed the best. The day after surgery he tried to walk. Even when he couldn’t walk without help, he still assumed he could. The surgery has been followed by physical therapy that includes laser acupuncture and hydrotherapy. Every additional two minutes he spends on the water ribbon that I hug like the first moon landing. When people roll their eyes at this story, I roll their eyes at their lack of faith. From the beginning I assumed that if I gave him all the advantages, the best would happen.
 
3. Listen to your inner voice
My voice and her inner voice didn’t always speak in unison. My voice said, you can’t use your back legs, wait until I get a towel to get under your belly. His voice said: I will crawl where I have to go. My voice said, you have to be confined until you regain the use of your legs. His voice said, I can drag my hind legs to get where I want to go. Finally, I heard OUR inner voice: a combination of my caution and her optimism.
 
Four. Live your life according to your standards. . . mainly
We made three ramps for her to use because she was not allowed to use steps early in her convalescence. As you have improved in “leaps and bounds,” choose the steps above the ramp. She insists that she can make a ladder herself, and if she isn’t cared for, she would be jumping into the car. My job in life is to constantly alter your expectations.
 
5. Adapt reluctantly
As she progressed, she was allowed to negotiate the steps herself, on a leash, doing them one by one. A huge improvement from having to go up and down stairs every day. After a few weeks, it seems like he reluctantly agreed to the terms. Even in his world, all the mountains are not worth dying for.
 
6. Fight continuously
My girl is a survivor. Since his first day after surgery, he has fought for success. The neurosurgeon first told us that he might not walk again; You may not have control over your bodily functions. She struggled not to be confined, she struggled to walk, she struggled to walk alone, and she struggled with me every day to have as normal a life as possible.
 
7.Accept the realities
This is a challenge for both of us. We see different realities. She sees where she was most of her life and asks why not? I think about where I was on October 10 and I never think about it again. So my reality gives you a little more freedom each day, and your reality gives you less freedom than before 10/10, and more freedom than I ever dreamed you would have.
 
After his surgery, I was amazed by the amazement of people that he gave a 12 year old dog, this surgery, this therapy, the best hand of minds and hands of medicine to offer. I knew I had to give him every opportunity that I could identify and allow myself to. And she has given me back my old Missy, almost, and a renewed belief that anything is possible.
 
With special thanks to my Moshe, Metropolitan Vet Hospital, Dr. Axlund, and Dancing Paws Animal Wellness.

Better communication with your dog often involves understanding his behavior. This includes why your dog is barking and how it wags its tail. These are two of the methods most used by your dog to convey a message to other nearby human beings. These could indicate a need for affection or play. The way your dog barks or wags his tail could also indicate feelings of fear or aggression in the minds of his angry friends.

Barking is a natural response to various situations. The type of bark your furious friend is making can indicate many things. When your dog barks, it could often mean that he is trying to get attention. This could mean that he is looking for affection or anticipating the start of the game. Your barking could also mean that you feel like a person is about to enter your personal place. This could mean that you are letting him know that someone is entering his personal place. Dogs often bark when another dog is nearby. Certain barking patterns should be allowed if they are normal for the needs of your angry friends. However, excessive barking should be discouraged.

When your dog wags his tail, he could be trying to convey various types of messages. These messages can include a state of affairs or satisfaction. The way your dog wags his tail could also indicate fear or potential aggression. The feelings of fear or aggression in your dog’s mind are usually triggered by something or someone in the vicinity that has triggered this response.

There are other indicators regarding how your dog is trying to convey a message to you. This could involve how your dog looks at you and the different body positions he does. Your dog may roll over to try to get you to scratch it. It could also stand on its hind legs with the front legs in the air looking to scratch its chest. Your dog may also look at you very carefully with his ears pricked, because he is begging for food. They can even tilt their head and sit on their hind legs with their front legs upright. Of course, these gestures could also indicate that your dog is looking to get out.

Interestingly, the dogs you spend more time with with a larger group of people learn a greater number of ways to communicate. Some research shows that it means that they are getting smarter and could be helpful in behaving in a more appropriate way.

Best regards

I’ve had quite a few conversations this past month with people about parrot behavior. Why do they do what they do anyway? In the most basic sense, it boils down to one thing: instinct. Okay, so what is that exactly? Technically, they are innate behavior patterns and responses to stimuli (including reflexes). Sounds a bit boring, doesn’t it? But that is why parrots do certain things.

Whether parrots are in the jungle, on the plains, or in your living room, they have the SAME instincts. Parrot instinct is a rigid behavior that we must learn to work WITH, not against. Working with parrots and understanding their instincts will help you develop the mutual trust that is necessary for a good relationship with your parrot.

Instinctive behavior is not the same as learned behavior. For example, parrots have certain calls to communicate, yet they learn to scream to get attention. Parrots are master manipulators when it comes to learned behaviors, they respond to your actions and emotions, and they can easily figure out how to “push their buttons,” but I’m going to stick to the basics in this article.

Dam vs. Predator

The most important thing to remember when interacting with parrots is that they are prey animals. Dogs and cats are PREDITORS. Parrots are always looking for something that can eat them. This prey mentality is to keep them alive. Predators are fast, parrots must live faster.

That is why their eyes are positioned on the sides of their head and their neck can rotate so that they can see almost 360 degrees around them. It’s the same reason that quick movements often scare or put them on their guard. (A hawk may come for lunch!)

Here are some common behaviors and underlying instincts of parrots:

Fight or fly

You’ve probably heard of fight or flight before, it has never been truer for parrots. I’m sure they’d rather run away from danger, but they can get nasty, and they will, when flying isn’t an option. When parrots perceive danger, the first response is to escape. Alex, my African gray is an excellent example of this. I call it the “fly first, ask later” behavior. If something startles him, he leaves and flies. If he is cornered, he will actually growl or strike a striking pose.

April, my Umbrella Cockatoo, has a slightly different strategy. It also flies when threatened, but does so while screaming at the top of its lungs to warn the other members of its herd. If it is cornered, its first response is to “pull out” all its feathers and open its wings and tail fully. This is to make it look much bigger and more intimidating. Then it will rock back and forth whistling loudly. Ok, it works. Don’t mess with her now.

Being wary of predators is also the reason why parrots prefer high places. A curtain rod or the top of the cage, among others, are the favorite places. In this way, they are in a better position to detect potential predators. If you had to worry about being someone’s lunch, you’d want to see them come first to get out of the way.

Flocking

Parrots need to interact with a flock. The flock in our homes are other birds, humans, or a little of both. Parrots are social animals and they count on each other to survive. One bird can alert hundreds of danger. And the massive movement of a flock of birds in flight confuses predators, etc.

In our homes, parrots need the attention of their human flock. If they can’t, they’ll find ways to do it that aren’t particularly human-friendly. Parrots will become lonely, self-destructive, and can develop behavior problems if not given enough attention. They NEED to be talked to, played with, and interacted with by other members of their “flock.”

Parrots are very “in tune” with their flock. True, if you have a lot of energy, are in a bad mood, or are sick and not feeling well, your parrot companion will interact with you in different ways depending on how he “feels”. Some say they are almost physical.

Flying

Flying is the most natural behavior of a bird. It’s hard to imagine how many pet birds never actually fly. Even if a bird has clipped wings, it can still fly to some extent. Flying VERY important for the physical and mental health of parrots. Parrots need exercise – it’s what their bodies were designed for! Flying parrots are generally safer and more comfortable. I won’t get into clipping safety or not here, but I switched sides years ago and will never clip a bird’s wings again. That is my personal opinion.

By seeing the world a little more through the eyes of a parrot, it is easier to understand where you can make some small changes to your own behavior and enjoy a better relationship with your bird. Remember: TRUST is the key! When there is mutual trust, both of you can let each other down a bit and enjoy each other’s company more.

The Siberian husky is a purebred dog recognized by the American Kennel Club (AKC) as a breed in 1930. The Siberian husky is a descendant of the “eskimo dog” or sled dog, and is also a member of the larger group of Spitz . dogs that derive from the Arctic. Its Spitz relative includes the Chow Chow and the Pomeranian. Its husky relative includes the Alaskan Malamute and the Samoyed. The Siberian Husky has traits of both groups, including the high-set triangular ears and curly, shaggy tail of the Spitz and the thick double coat of insulating fur and general wolf-like appearance of the Eskimo Dog and other Huskies.

Siberian Huskies were brought to Alaska in 1909 to participate in sledding competitions. His stamina and intelligence helped the husky win many sled races. This breed of dog is more commonly used in American Kennel Club competition than sled racing today, but the traits required to pull sleds are still the characteristics necessary to win.

Behavioral traits common to Siberian Huskies can be problematic for the wrong owner. Like wolves, Siberian huskies howl. This excessive howling can surprise an unsuspecting owner. Huskies are independent, stubborn, energetic pack animals that require specific care and training to maintain their happiness and health. Siberian Husky breeders will not sell puppies to owners who are not familiar with the breed. This is because there are a disproportionate number of Huskies sitting in shelters and rescue centers because their uneducated owners wanted a beautiful dog but did not research the behavioral characteristics of the breed. Siberian Huskies are considered one of the best insurance-boosting dogs due to their tendency to run away and run. Other “bad” dogs on this list include Rottweilers and Pit Bulls.

Siberian Huskies, like wolves, have a pack mentality and are unhappy and boring without constant interaction with humans or other dogs. They require adequate space to run and will become destructive if tied up or enclosed in a pen. They have a lot of fur and therefore a lot of fur to shed. Potential owners should know how to care for their husky before purchasing.

Siberian huskies breeders will not sell purebred huskies to just anyone. In fact, breeders may have more questions for potential buyers than buyers for breeders. Due to the high incidence of abandonment of this breed, breeders will want to ensure that potential owners are a good match for a Siberian Husky.

To find reputable Siberian Husky breeders, it is important to ensure that they live in a cool climate, as huskies are made for cold weather and can suffer from heat stroke at high temperatures. Other traits to look for in a good breeder include the following: the breeder maintains their own kennels, their huskies have received proper vaccinations and medical tests, the breeder does not breed huskies with known medical conditions or behavioral problems, no They sell pet stores or pet brokers, the kennels are clean and meet the social and training needs of huskies, they are breed experts and affiliated with purebred rescue centers, they have good references such as the AKC (American Kennel Club), interview buyers to ensure they are a good match and willing and able to provide information about the Siberian husky.

“All dogs must be socialized as puppies, before 16 weeks of age. This is the most important time in a dog’s life. This is the time that will shape them and determine what kind of friendly dog ​​they will become. “

“This is the time when your puppy should meet people, other dogs and animals. This is the most important part of a puppy’s life and will determine what his behavior will be like when he grows up and what kind of personality he will have.”

“This is the most important time to get up close and personal with your puppy, and introduce him to the things of your life. You can introduce your puppy to car rides, meeting new people, or taking a walk in the park.”

“Your puppy will also encounter new environments and things on their own, such as plants, wild animals, birds, cats, things they could find on their own, without you, so they must be prepared for life.”

“You want your new puppy to adjust well to his new world. You don’t want to leave him in a kennel all day, which would not be good for him or you.”

“Each and every puppy must be socialized so that they have a good understanding of their environment and all the things that happen around them, no matter where you got your puppy from, all puppies must be socialized.”

“The time to socialize your puppy is until 16 weeks of age. You don’t want him to start having problems like separation anxiety, excessive barking, chewing on your favorite items, urinating and defecating in the wrong places.”

“If you plan to take your puppy or dog to obedience training classes, it will be much more enjoyable if your puppy is already familiar with things. You should take the time to socialize him, so he can have an excellent chance of being the best dog. What do you want it to be! “

“You want to socialize your puppy, because when he’s older, you want him to get along with humans, other animals, and society in general. You don’t want a puppy that hides or is afraid of everything around him.”

“You don’t want a puppy or a dog that barks at everything that moves, or anything like that. Every person the dog comes into contact with will be a sign of the puppy not being properly socialized at a young age. Give your pup the love and respect he deserves, and have fun with him too while you socialize – your dog will love you for it later! “

“A major reason that some dogs in the United States have to be euthanized each year is simply for the simple fact that the dog was not socialized as a puppy. And because of that sad fact, the puppy or dog just does. he did not have the skills to act adequately in familiar, public or difficult situations. “

“It’s a poor fact, that if most dogs had been properly socialized as puppies, they would have been much kinder and well-behaved dogs when they were older. It’s not that difficult to socialize your new pup, and it can be fun and rewarding. ! “

“You really don’t want your kids to grow up, where you leave them in the backyard, and they don’t know how to interact with the family, and they’re a nuisance to the overall neighborhood. One that destroys or digs all over your backyard, you have a choice. when you get your puppy. You can turn him into a responsible, friendly, well-behaved and good-natured dog. “

“It’s nice to have a dog to trust, and everyone should be able to trust their dog. You want your dog to be able to make rational decisions when he’s away from home with you. He should be able to be around a lot of people, without jumping on all of them, and bark at them non-stop. “

“From the day your new puppy is born, the mother has already started the process for you. When she has the litter, she will make sure that they lick each one, to stimulate them, and that they can urinate and defecate, and the mother will take care of it of this, it is natural that they do it “.

“As the puppies grow older, the mother will use smell, sounds and body language to teach the puppies natural skills. This is also the time when the mother can discipline her puppies – don’t be alarmed, this is also natural”.

“Puppies learn from each other while in the litter together. They play, fight, and generally learn to live together, get along and get to know each other.”

“When your puppy is between 7 and 8 weeks old, this is the crucial time to play with him, with human hands, with human touch and scents. This is also a good time for the breeder or owner to start train the puppy at home. “

“You don’t want your puppy or dog to be afraid of humans when they grow up. It is extremely important to spend quality time with your puppy, just playing, hugging and loving him. You want him to get used to you and other members of the household.”

“Most new puppies arrive at their new home around 8 weeks of age or older. When your new puppy arrives, you should immediately start socializing them with everything around them. You should also remember not to give them anything that scares them too much. ., or harm them. You don’t want to immediately introduce them to an aggressive dog that is too aggressive for them, or one that could scar them for life. Just use common sense when dealing with your new puppy. “

“If you have a giant big hole in your backyard, you don’t want to let your new pup go and find the hole by accident. You want to introduce your pup to his new surroundings with a walkthrough, so he or she would feel safe, but still interested and alert. “

“It is good to introduce your new Mastiff puppy to a chew toy at this time. This will be used for training purposes. You should pick up your puppy and give him the love that all puppies desire. Rub his tummy, scratch his head, talk to them gently, and your new pup will love him so much, you will too! “

“Now that your new puppy is home, it’s important to start teaching him some basic commands right away. He should learn commands like sit, stay, lie down, etc.”

“This is the time when you want to introduce your puppy to lots of new experiences, such as loud radios, children playing and screaming, noisy appliances such as vacuum cleaners, televisions, dishwashers, lawn mowers, etc.”

“It’s good to let your new puppy discover on his own, while you supervise him well. Let him walk around and discover the plants in your garden, the toys in your kid’s bedroom, and the tools in the garage. They get hurt, but let them explore. , so that they are not afraid of what surrounds them “.

“If your dog is going to live in a tall building, or on a boat or yacht, get used to the elevators or get on and off the boat safely. Take your puppy for a walk and let him meet other dogs on leashes. for people to stop and pet your dog, you don’t want your dog to grow up afraid of people, and then bite them out of fear! “

“It is good to introduce your new puppy to as many people as you can, between 8 and 12 weeks of age. This is the time when it is most important to socialize your new mastiff puppy with people. Encourage them to be nice to your puppy, touch, play, pet and give treats, in a non-threatening way. “

“Taking your new pup to off-leash dog parks is not recommended, as some parks have a lot of dogs. Some of the dogs will not have been vaccinated, and it is still your choice, but you probably wouldn’t send your kids to school. , with other children who have not been vaccinated, if he knew. “

“Don’t assume that all dogs in the off-leash dog park have been properly socialized and are all vaccinated, so exercise caution in dog parks.”

“If you want to teach your puppy or dog to ride with you, take him on short trips first. If you put a new puppy or dog in a car and take him on a trip across the country, the puppy or dog may the dog will never want to go back to the car! “

“Take short trips and take the first couple to fun places! If your dog’s only walk is to the vet, or some other unpleasant place, they will associate that trip with unpleasant things, so make him happy!”

While there has always been a need for people to care and love to respond to the needs of helpless and abandoned animals, of late economic downturns have exacerbated the problem to critical levels. Every day we see harrowing images of cats and dogs collected by county pounds. We hear heartfelt stories from people who were forced to give up their homes and can no longer care for their beloved pets due to expenses. Fortunately, compassionate people respond to this need, but they need your support to continue their work.

Countless groups of volunteers are doing everything they can to make sure these homeless animals are rescued and not euthanized. You can find a rescue center near you that would appreciate your time and support. This volunteer service is especially attractive to high school students, who often need service credit to graduate. A rescue center offers an interactive program designed to teach young children appropriate pet lessons and experiences. All Ears Reading ® promotes a program where “pets are the perfect reading companions because they are attentive, non-judgmental and comforting.” Many centers offer community outreach to educate people about the need for sterilization and vaccinations. The centers work with adult day care programs and assisted living facilities. Another program involving rescued pets helps high-risk adolescent women develop positive personal skills so they can become contributing members of society. Some offer obedience training. These are just some of the positive and supportive efforts of animal rescue centers. Remember also that cats and dogs need veterinary attention, grooming, feeding, and exercise.

Adults of all ages and professions find satisfaction working with rescue centers and caring for dogs and cats there. These animals seem to know that keepers are their last hope. Rescue centers keep animals away from euthanasia. They find foster homes and help match a potential owner with the right pet.

Not everyone has the time or the ability of the patient to carry out the day to day that these dogs and cats require. However, if you share a concern for the welfare of these animals, you can help with the financial support these centers need. Your donations will ensure that these programs continue.

Most dogs are known to eat until all their food is gone. This is a survival instinct, but also a bad habit that is difficult to control. Given that an estimated 50% of all dogs are overweight or even obese, how can you identify weight issues with your dog and ensure that your pet is at a healthy weight?

Since dogs come in a variety of shapes and sizes based on breed and other factors, it can be difficult to tell if your dog is at a healthy weight. Most of the resources used to determine a dog’s weight are based solely on breed and can vary widely. For example, the average weight range for an adult Labrador Retriever is 55 to 80 pounds. We know that labs over 80 pounds are considered overweight, but what if your dog is a mixed breed? For pet owners who have mixed breed dogs, or have or are adopted rescue dogs and may not even know what the breed is, how can you identify if your dog is at a healthy weight?

One technique veterinarians use to identify weight problems in dogs is the body condition score, or BCS. Rather than using dog breeds as a guide to a healthy weight, BCS uses visual observations to assess a dog’s body condition and determine whether he is underweight, overweight, or at an ideal weight.

Checking your pet’s BCS is something that most pet owners can do at home on a regular basis to monitor the health of their dog’s weight. Finding a dog’s body condition score is based on how easy it is to feel your dog’s ribs, the size of the animal’s waist and abdomen, the amount of excess fat under its skin, and the amount of muscle mass present in the dog. An overweight dog will have a visibly flabby stomach, no visible waist, hard-to-feel ribs, and a flat, broad back. In contrast, underweight dogs have ribs, spine, and other skeletal features that are visible from a distance.

Like their human counterparts use BMI to accurately determine weight, dogs with a higher BCS tend to be overweight, while dogs with a lower BCS are underweight and often undernourished.

If you determine that your dog is underweight, you will need to increase and control his eating habits. For many underweight dogs, their owners are less likely to not give them enough food, as the dog is particularly fussy about food. If this is the case, it is essential to find a type of dog food that they like to eat and to control their eating habits. For overweight dogs, the best solution is to slowly decrease their food intake and increase their physical activity. Don’t abruptly cut your dog’s meals in half, gradually reduce his food intake over time.

You can use these techniques to find your dog’s BCS and identify weight problems early on, however if eating problems persist or you think your dog may have another health condition, it is always a good idea to take your dog. to your local vet.

Sitting is the most basic dog command out there and it is probably one of the first things your Jack Russell will learn besides his name. It is one of the most useful commands and also extremely easy to teach, making it an essential part of Jack Russell training. It is useful in preventing many common behavior problems for Jack Russells, such as jumping on visitors and running away suddenly for no apparent reason. These are simple, step-by-step instructions for teaching a Jack Russell to sit up.

1. Find a treat your dog likes. It can be a treat, a toy, or a game. If you plan to use a toy as a reward, be aware that this will likely increase the amount of time you spend training, as it takes more time to play than to quickly gobble down some dog biscuit. But you should use whatever reward your dog responds to the most. I find small pieces of minced sausage or shredded cheese to be good Jack Russell delicacies. Don’t overdo it though – too many treats can make your dog overweight, and too much cheese can cause constipation. The idea is to give him a very small amount of a food that your dog values ​​highly.

2. To begin, find a quiet place without distractions. Have several pieces of the treat ready to use. Take a small portion of the treat (or a toy, if that’s what you’re using) and hold it in front of your JRT to get their attention. Hold it in front of your nose; At this point, you can start licking your fingers. Okay, but don’t give him the treat just yet.

3. Slowly draw the treat up and back. You should aim to move it along an imaginary line from the tip of your dog’s nose to the middle of the forehead. (If your JRT has a white stripe down the middle of its head, draw the food along that line.) Now by doing this the dog will naturally start to move backwards, its hind legs will buckle when its head tilts. Get up and he’ll sit down. At this point, mark the action immediately by saying “Good dog”, or something similar of your choosing, and give the treat immediately.

4. Do not give the treat if the dog’s front legs come off the ground. Sometimes Jack Russells get so excited that they grab onto the treat and try to climb up the hand. In this case, hold the treat closer to the ground. Only give the treat when the dog’s front legs are on the ground and his rear is touching the ground. Use your other hand to gently press down on him if necessary, but never use force, especially with a puppy. Just gently guide him into the correct position, praise him, and reward him.

5. Once the dog has become accustomed to the action and can sit regularly when offered a treat, begin introducing the verbal command “Sit.” The command should be given immediately before the action to create an association, so say “Sit” just as you bring the treat to your dog’s nose.

6. When the dog fully understands the verbal command and can sit steadily, stop rewarding each Sit and only reward randomly. Every now and then add an extra large treat to get your dog to work harder.

7. If the dog is still too hyperactive to train properly, try taking him for a walk before training.

8. If your dog is not interested in the treat, try training when he is hungrier or experiment with new treats and toys until you find something that catches his eye.

Follow these tips and you will find that Jack Russell training is much easier from now on.

“I’d like a puppy cut, please,” says Bella’s mom, who owns an adorable Maltese. Quick: look at the shrink shape along the hairdresser’s face as they think, “What does that mean?” There is no ‘standard term’ in the personal care industry for a puppy cut. Every hairdresser interprets it differently and this is where the confusion lies. To Bella’s mom, it sounds simple enough, but to the hairdresser, this can lead to a bad haircut, a disgruntled customer, and a misunderstanding that can make the hairdresser appear incompetent. So now the series of questions begins:

How long do you want?

Do you want the legs longer than the body?

Do you want the face and head to be round or square?

Do you like long ears or short ears?

Do you like the tight muzzle?

And another 15 questions generated from that simple statement … “I want a puppy cut.”

In a way I lied upstairs. There is a puppy cut for poodles. The definition of this clip is to shave the face, shave the feet (poodle legs), and create a tail band. A true puppy cut does not take away any length from the body. But based on the description above, I find it highly unlikely that this is what Bella’s mom wants.

At some point, Bella’s mom heard the term and thought … “Wow, I want my pet to look like a puppy all the time!” That makes sense, and a hairdresser can still achieve that look, but there are many other questions that need to be addressed to achieve the look that she desires.

“But my previous hairdresser used to say Puppy Cut. Why is it wrong then?”

Most likely, your groomer will simply accept what you say, rather than educate you, the pet owner. I know personally that I have spoken to thousands of clients about the puppy cut debacle! Sometimes it’s lazy, and sometimes, well, the hairdresser just doesn’t have time to educate the owner. But I guess they went through a series of questions to find out exactly what you wanted.

How your groomer looks at your dog.

When a groomer is checking out your pet, he is dividing your pet’s body into categories to determine the haircut you want. Think of it as a big puzzle and little by little we are putting the pieces together to achieve the desired look. This is how your groomer looks at your dog:

The body

The body is defined as the trunk of your dog, excluding the legs and feet. This is where groomers want to know how much hair you want your pet to have. Break those rules because it’s time to learn what an inch is! A running joke in all salons is when a pet owner says, “I want about 2 inches to remain on the body” when their pet only has a quarter of an inch of hair. To avoid being the butt of groomer jokes, it is far better to use your fingers as an indicator of how much coat you want your pet to fit. Then a hairdresser will translate that into the proper blade to use.

There is no standard puppy length or puppy cut. Speaking to groomers across the country, their definition of the length of a puppy cut ranges from a quarter of an inch to 2 inches. That is a great variety. Stick with your fingers and show how much coat you got.

Legs and feet.

The next area of ​​the body that a hairdresser examines is the legs and feet. Owners can make the decision to leave the legs slightly longer than the trunk of the body. This creates a kind of ‘teddy bear look’. Some owners simply prefer to be the same length throughout, so please indicate which one you prefer during the inquiry period. It is important to note that longer legs can mean a greater likelihood of entanglement.

Recognize your pet’s lifestyle and how often he brushes his teeth between grooming appointments. If home maintenance isn’t an issue, consider this adorable look. The same with the feet. Some clients prefer round, thick feet, while others do not want their pet to crawl in the mud. Let your hairdresser know your concerns and he will make them come true.

The tail and the rear.

Does your dog make lumps on himself when he uses the bathroom? Do they drag their tails all over the leaves in your garden? These are concerns that need to be addressed with your hairdresser. We can create a tighter Touche to keep your pet’s rear more tidy. Or do you prefer the fluffier butt and long tail? Let your hairdresser know what look you like here too.

The headdress

Excluding the ears, a hairdresser wants to know the general shape you want to leave the head. How much hair do you prefer on the top of your head? (Do you want enough hair to form a bun?) What about the bangs (also known as a visor)? Do you prefer longer, shorter, rounder, or squarer muzzle hair? This is a good talking point to indicate if your pet’s facial hair becomes tangled and dirty while eating and drinking. If this is the case, as in the back, a hairdresser can shorten this area to keep it cleaner longer.

Ears and eyelashes

The last piece of the puzzle is your preference for ears and eyelashes. Please indicate whether you want ears short or long, rounded, cropped or completely shaved. The same goes for the eyelashes. If you don’t want them cut, say so! A hairdresser will generally remove the lashes unless instructed otherwise.

Like hairdressers, hairdressers need to identify many aspects to get the right haircut. While your groomer wants to know where the hair is parted, how long it should be removed, and what to do with the bangs and around the ears, a groomer has to determine what you want for your baby’s entire body. Like hairdressers, there are no universal haircut names that spell out exactly what you want.

Now you know

Understanding how your groomer looks at your pet and interpreting what you want is a great way to bridge the communication gap that occurs so often when describing the haircut you want. If you could divide your beloved dog into sections and convey what you want for each one, you are well on your way to achieving a successful haircut! So when your groomer says, “Oh, you want a puppy cut …”

You can laugh and say, “There is no such thing as a puppy cut!”