Ask most people what the biggest day on the Norwegian calendar is and they will probably tell you that it is the first day of the ice fishing season. If you’re in that group (come on, be honest), you might be shocked and surprised to find out that you’re WRONG… close… but WRONG! If you live in Dane, Rock, or Green counties, you must leave the city by train.
The correct answer is Syttende Mai. (Pronounced Setten from me.) Syttende Mai has the same meaning in Norway as the 4th of July in the United States. At the end of the Napoleonic Wars, Norway, which had been under Danish control since the mid-13th century, was turned over by Denmark to Sweden. Norwegians were upset by this turn of events as they had always considered themselves an independent country and on May 17 (or Syttende Mai) 1814 they signed a constitution declaring themselves so. Sweden was not impressed and continued to rule Norway for another hundred years, finally granting independence in 1905.
But I digress. Syttende Mai is celebrated with children’s parades, grand parades, dancing and food, lots and lots of food. And what do Norwegians eat, you ask? According to Howard Mohr, in his Upper Midwestern Scandinavian lifestyle bible How to Talk Minnesotan, Norwegians like white food. If it is not naturally white, they will make it white. While this is mostly true, it is not completely true. A bit of color sneaks in, here and there.
Like most cuisines, Norwegian cuisine includes things both wonderful and to the uninitiated… terrifying. Here’s a quick overview of Norwegian cuisine. The most famous Norwegian foods are the ever-popular lutefisk and lefse. Lutefisk literally means bleach fish. Lutefisk is air-dried cod, called cod, that is sawed (literally) into manageable pieces, soaked in fresh water for eight days, a lye solution (you read that right, lye) for two days, and then fresh water again for a two additional days. After all that, the lutefisk is simmered until firm and translucent. Lutefisk is NOT an acquired taste. Either you like it or you don’t like it.
While lutefisk is available here and there in grocery stores, especially around Christmas, it’s not the easiest thing to find. The Olsen Fish Company on the North Side of Minneapolis is the largest producer in the world. They earn more than £650,000 a year. They sell dried cod for the DIYers and lutefisk processed and ready to cook for the rest of us. The lutefisk is packaged under the Olsen, Viking, Kemps, and Mike labels, but you cannot buy directly from Olsens because they are strictly a wholesale company.
Lefse is made from potatoes. It’s thin and flexible, and looks and feels like a flour tortilla. It’s been compared to a dish towel, but that’s an unfair judgment by people who have tried shoddy, store-bought, or old products. Fresh lefse is a delicate and flavorful treat, especially when buttered and rolled with brown sugar.
The absolute best place to get lefse is to find a church with a group of little Norwegian ladies who set up shop in the church kitchen and produce lefse to sell as a fundraiser. Stoughton, Mount Horeb or Westby are good places to start. Otherwise, the general consensus among lefse connoisseurs is that the Countryside Lefse in Blair, Wisconsin is by far the best commercially made lefse. The reason is that they make lefse the same way you would at home (or at church). They use real potatoes and roll and flip the left by hand. Countryside Lefse is distributed to local grocery stores, but you can also order directly from their website lefse.com.
Lutefisk is not the only fish dish out there. Almost as ubiquitous is pickled herring. Norwegians eat tons of stuff every year. The herrings are pickled in the traditional way with vinegar and spices and then things get interesting. There are 15 species of herring and at least as many ways to pack them. The two most popular variations are in sour cream or wine sauce, but new varieties have emerged in recent years including Cajun and fresh dill.
Fiskballer (fish balls) and fish soup can contain just about anything. The main trick with fish balls is to pass the meat through a grinder at least five times. The strangest sound of all is fiskepudding or fish pudding. It’s exactly what it sounds like. To get the required light and fluffy consistency, you need really fresh fish. The fish is pureed with cream and a few other things and then baked. It is usually served hot and drenched in butter.
Now that we’re done, we can move on to the big stuff: cookies and baked goods. The most recognizable Norwegian cookies are krumkake. These cone-shaped delights are sometimes filled, but often served plain (as God intended) and are light and crisp with just a hint of cardamom. Sandbakkel comes in a variety of forms. The dough is pressed into shapes that are essentially little pie tins. They have a thicker, more substantial texture and a clear almond flavor. Fattigman (poor man’s cookies) are similar to sandbakkels in texture but without the almond flavor. Fattigman cookies are different because they are fried. A little powdered sugar on top and you have a very tasty cookie.
By far the prettiest and most delicate cookies are rosettes or rosettes. The biscuit starts with a thin dough, then flower- or star-shaped irons with long handles are dipped into the dough, then dipped in hot oil. The cookies are fried until they are a beautiful golden color. Once dusted with powdered sugar, they’re as much a work of art as they are a delicious, paper-thin treat.
Pastries of all kinds are part of the Norwegian diet. Two in particular are worth noting. One is the kransekake. This is an almond cake that is baked into 18 thin concentric rings that are then stacked to form a cone 12 to 18 inches tall, all glued together with frosting. Kransekake is usually served on special occasions, especially weddings. They are decorated for the occasion with real flowers, firecrackers, flags or whatever. They’re about as gooey as cake and seem deceptively simple to create once you’ve got the special baking rings. When things go wrong, kransekake are almost inedible. However, when Ole and Lena smile and everything turns out as it should, the nice texture and almond flavor of kransekake makes all the work worth it.
At the other end of the spectrum, Norwegian apple pie is a study in rustic elegance that satisfies without pretense. Sugar, flour, salt, baking powder, apples, walnuts, and an egg combine to create a sturdy cake loaded with bits of walnuts and apples. It’s simple, but this is a clear case of the sum being greater than its parts. Serve it with some fresh whipped cream or vanilla ice cream on top. Best of all, it’s even better on the second day.
Other weird and varied Norwegian specialties include rommegrot, fruktsuppe, and sweet soup. Rommegrot is a sour cream soup that is usually drizzled liberally with butter and sprinkled with sugar and ground cinnamon (Norwegians seem to do this a lot). Rommegrot is thick and sweet and needs something to wash it down. Red draft juice is popular, but you might do better with a beer or Aquavit.
Fruktsuppe, or fruit soup, is pretty much what it says it is, a soup made with tapioca, prunes, raisins, apples, oranges, and just about any other fresh, frozen, canned, or dried fruit you have nearby. The difference is that while Americans like their fruit soup cold, Norwegians serve it hot, garnished with lemon and orange slices.
Sot suppe (sweet soup) is self explanatory. It is also a fruit soup made with dried fruits, especially grapes, currants, plums, and tapioca, but this is served cold. Sides include Christmas bread, Christmas cookies, open-face sandwiches, and a variety of sliced cheeses.
This is far from a complete list of Norwegian foods. Norwegian is a cuisine as wide and varied as that of other countries and it awaits you to explore it. Many of the foods I’ve mentioned are available prepackaged or as mixes. The web offers recipes galore for those who want to get down to business. Either way, you can get into the party spirit because, just like St. Patrick’s Day, everyone on Syttende Mai is Norwegian.
Buy Norwegian in Wisconsin
Many Norwegian food items are things you can’t get at your local Pick ‘n Save or Piggly Wiggly. These are special items that are only available at certain stores. Some require special devices. Lefse and krumkake griddles and sandbakkel tins are usually available in the same shops. Here is a partial list of places to visit.
Open House Imports, 306 E. Main St., Mt. Horeb, WI 53572, (608) 437-5468 openhouseimports.com
Open House offers a good selection of items including Freia Chocolates, sandbakkel, lefse and rommergrot mixes, fish soup, fish balls, salmon and caviar spread, cranberry and Hartshorn Salt (a hard to find ingredient in some Norwegian dishes). ). They also carry Norwegian equipment.
Dick’s Quality Meats, 201 Main Street, Mt. Horeb, WI 53572. A good source of herring, lefse, and, at holiday times, lutefisk.
Norske Nook Restaurant, Cafe & Gift Shop — Osseo, 13804-13807 7th Street, Osseo, WI 54758, (715) 597-3765 norskenook.com
Norske Nook – Rice Lake, 2900 Pioneer Avenue, Rice Lake, WI 54868, 715-234-1733
Norske’s Corner — Hayward, Hwy. 27 south, Hayward, WI 54843, (715) 634-4928
The Norske Nook is a Wisconsin legend, offering “from scratch” cuisine and fabulous baked goods. The restaurants offer a limited selection of items, but the selection at the Osseo gift shop is more extensive with imported cookies, lingonberries, lefse, potato dumplings and Norwegian pancake mixes, and more. They also carry lefse and krumkake irons, sandbakkel tins and other necessary equipment.
Dregnes Scandinavian Gifts, 100 S. Main St., Westby, WI 54667, Phone: (608) 634-4414 Toll Free: (877) 634-4414 DregnesScandinavianGifts.com. Dregnes had the best selection of products of all the places we reviewed. They offer Norwegian cheeses, fish soup, two different types of fish balls, vanilla and pearl sugars, Ljus syrup, glug and numerous mixes. Their kitchen shop offers all the necessary kitchen utensils to prepare a delicious Norwegian meal.
Nordic Nook, 176 W. Main St., Stoughton, WI 53589, Phone: (608) 877-0848 Toll Free: (866) 912-6665 nordic-nook.com. The Nordic Nook has a good selection of Norwegian cookware and all the standard food offerings. A couple of unusual and delicious additions are the pepparkakor candies (gingerbread cookies) and the Ole and Lena fortune cookies.
Cheesers, LLC 186 E. Main St., Stoughton, WI 53589, Phone: (608) 873-1777 Fax: (608) 877-0362 cheesers.com. Stoughton has the biggest Syttende Mai celebration outside of Norway, so you know Stoughton is serious about Norwegian food. Cheesers doesn’t offer the kitchen equipment like the others, but does offer a good selection of items including a wide selection of flatbreads and chips, fresh lefse, coffee, Jarlsberg cheese and two kinds of Gjetost. This is a great place for all your cheese needs. Your selection is complete.